RE: Are there dependable cash special TVs?
I’m a cash kinda guy, I don’t finance anything. So here’s the question… What is the most dependable $5000 TV? For this price range it will most likely have high mileage, so I’m leaning towards a diesel, but what transmission should I look for?
Thanks
I agree with the others, a $5000 diesel might have a good engine, but what about the rest of the truck? That thing will most likely have a boat load of miles.
Here are links to two trucks I found with a quick Autotrader search:
1995 Chevy 2500
1998 F250
As long as you stay with a TT under 8,000# you'll probably be okay with either truck. Both of them are listed with 103,000 miles, which isn't too bad for a truck that age. The Hydramatic 4L80E tranny in the chevy are pretty well known for longevity. The Ford is probably an E4OD, which weren't too bad if they weren't overheated.
KJ
RE: Strange boat trailer - can it be fixed?
You unhook the ball and the trailer tongue rises about 1'. ........Also, I did neglect to mention it is dual axels.
A tandem axle trailer definitely should not do this. This easiest thing to try first is move the winch forward, toward the coupler.
Is this a bunk or roller type trailer? If it's a roller type you need to have the last roller as close to the transom as possible. If it's a bunk, you can have a little bit of the board sticking out the back.
I/O, especially that cast iron V8 block in your beast, are extremely heavy in the aft portion of the boat. That means the greatest percentage of weight on the trailer is behind the axles. Try the winch trick first. If that doesn't work then you can move the axles back.
I would suggest you pull the rig over a scale and see exactly how much the boat + trailer weighs. This will give you an idea of the tongue weight you should have, which is about 10% of the total. Right now you're at 0%, which means a bunch of weight is biased toward the rear axle putting excess strain on those tires compared to the front set.
KJ
RE: Buy a 5th wheel trlr or a travel trlr????
With a pull trailer, personally I would not again go over 25 feet....I know there will be lots of people tell you that with proper equipment, Like a 2000 dollar Hensley arrow you can pull anything. but lets get reasonable here.
I don't believe that to be the case at all. I have a standard round bar WD hitch with the Reese Dual Cam and I have no sway issues whatsoever. I make sure the load in the TT is distributed properly and that the hitch is setup right and my 34' trailer rolls down the road just fine. The trailer is around 7,000# and combined I'm right at 14,000# with everybody in the truck and hitched up.
I agree with Barney. Find the trailer with all the features you like. If it's a 5er or TT doesn't matter. Then, get a truck that will handle load, hook up, and head down the road.
KJ
RE: Not just another aimless, inane fuel saving tip! Really!
You eliminated over 500 pounds of stuff you don't use?? I only have about 500# of gear TOTAL in my camper. Granted, it's a popup. But what the heck do you need so much junk for anyways??
Weeding things out is a task we need to perform before putting our TT to bed for the winter this year. However, one of our reasons for going to a full TT (we previously had a pop-up) is the ability to just keep everything in the camper. All we have to do is fill the fridge, put in a few clothes, and we can hookup and head to the campground. With the pop-up we had almost no storage so all cooking items, clothes, bedding, etc etc had to packed and just didn't seem like it was worth all the work.
I realize others love pop-ups and I'm by no means bashing them, but I'm simply pointing out our rationale for moving to a TT. Oh yeah, also the wife likes the self-contained potty.....she doesn't do the public bathroom/potty-pit thing very well.
KJ
RE: Prodigy failure on its first trip
As others have said, trailer manufacturers are notorious for skimping on brake wiring. What you'll most likely find is a single pair of 14 gauge wires (one hot, one neutral) that goes to one of the wheels. From there they will have spliced into that line branching over to other wheels.
I encountered similar problems that you've found on my trailer. I finally. If you're having trouble, the best thing to do is run dedicated hot and neutral to each wheel. On my TT, I installed two buss bars like the one below (I bought them at CarQuest) in the wiring compartment in the front of the trailer. I put the blue brake lead from the 7-way umbilical on one of them and the white, neutral line to the other. Then I made a "home run" from the buss bars to each magnet connection.
Unfortunately for me, this did not completely eliminate my problem. I found later that my brakes were severely out of adjustment. While I had the drums apart I inspected all wires and made sure the magnet contact surfaces were clean. I haven't had any brake problems since this was all completed.
http://smartcat.colehersee.com/images/m-449.jpg width=640
KJ
Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
RE: Locker and mirror advice?
Are you sure the truck doesn't already have the GM Gov-Lock in the rear axle? Take a look at the sticker in the glove box and look for the code G80. IF that is there, then you already have the Gov-Lock.
If you don't have the G80, then I would suggest an Eaton Limited Slip differential. Be careful when you're shopping because I think the 8.1L (and Duramax) trucks got the 11.5" ring gear. I'm not sure how that will effect your options, but it's definitely something to be careful about.
KJ
RE: Concern about electric brakes
It seems that for most stopping (i.e. whenever you don't use the manual control on the brake controller) the electric brakes rely on the tow vehicle's brake light circuitry for power.
The brake light circuit is only used to activate the controller. The power for the brakes should be pulled directly from a battery source that has a 30 or 40 amp fuse/breaker.
If your controller is pulling it's power from the brake light circuit then it is not wire properly.
KJ
RE: Electric Brake Problem finally fixed
I'm glad you found your problem. My Prodigy controller would show NC or SH and then the brakes would be gone. You can see in this thread what I went through to try and fix the problem.
You can also search for a post by LAdams, the moderator for the Travel Trailers forum, about the way he rewired his brakes. A very common finding is that RV manufactures (or maybe it's the chassis manufacturer?) wire these brakes in the fastest, cheapest way possible. I would argue the way I, and others have rewired them, is the true correct way. That is, a single buss for each lead and a dedicated wire to each wheel. I had found a single pair of 14 gauge wires that went to one wheel and then the rest daisy chained off that to the other wheels. There were at least 10 different connections, all of which made for potential corrosion and problems.
KJ
RE: Change oil at 3K miles or by veh. computer ? Revised page 7
I have been wrestling with how often oil and filter changes need to be done, ever since I bought a new vehicle with a factory computer that tells me when my oil needs to be changed.
I use regular Dino oil...Quaker State.
I have always changed the oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals, for going on 40 years.
I've never had an engine related, internal problem in all those years, with many vehicles.
On one side, it's hard to argue with success. 40 years of 3,000 mile oil changes and no failures is great.
However, advanced oil technology and refinement I'd have to say that 3,000 mile oil changes have gone the way of......the dinosaur :S Sorry I couldn't resist. Even with running conventional oil I'd say it's pretty safe to trust the oil life monitor system. Just to be safe I use Mobil 1 synthetic on both my 2004 Chevy 2500HD and in the wife's 2002 Potaic Montana. Also I use Delco filters in each of them with each change. Typically, my OMS goes off somewhere around 5,000 to 6,000 miles between changes.
KJ
RE: 12 Volt lights fluctuating dim and bright
We used the trailer all week last week without a single problem ever from the lights. It looks like the $$$ spent on the new converter fixed the problem.
KJ
RE: Diagnosing trailer brake problems
I finally had a chance to make a long haul with the trailer last week. 500 miles round trip and I never once saw an error on the Prodigy or lost braking power.
I'm still not certain what I did to solve the problem, but it appears that everything is working fine for now. One thing I did do a few weeks ago was change the female receptacle on the umbilical. This was after my initial "fix" of cleaning and adjusting the brakes. So I'm not even sure of the new plug really had any effect.
At this point, I'm not going to mess with success. The brakes are working and I can drive without worrying.
KJ
RE: Tow Vehicle Nightmare- First Long Distance Trip
Isn't the powertrain warranted for 100,000 miles? From reading info around here, both of those seem to be fairly common problems and I would have thought they'd be covered.
KJ*
RE: GM selling Hummer, maybe more
It would be very surprising for them to drop GMC, although at one time it was the "luxury" truck division, there isn't a lot of difference in option/luxury features between GMCs and Chevys these days. So I guess dropping GMC makes some sense too. When all is said and done, I can see Chevy, Cadillac, Pontiac, and Saab left. Maybe GMC.
As I ponder this more, I can see GMC trucks surviving in one capacity.....the Kodiak line. Or, didn't GM sell that recently :H Anyway, if they were to keep the GMC line I could see them keep it as the "commercial" line of trucks. They would be GM's 4500 and up pickup line (with bed or cab & chassis) and MDT's. Then, leave the Chevy line to service consumers with the Colorado, 1500, 2500HD, and 3500 series trucks.
This strategy would clarify brands and give separate, distinct lines for personal and commercial trucks.
KJ
RE: Bad resonation problems.....PLEASE HELP
I know you just dumped a bunch of money in the intake, exhaust, and programmer but I'm guessing that outside of dumping all of that and going back to factory parts, you're stuck with the noise.
I had a '97 Chevy 1500 that someone had put on true dual exhaust with glass packs and 3' long, 3" trumpet chrome tips. That thing cackled like a witch in a cave. A local shop had the factory exhaust stored in the rafters that they had taken off some brand new trucks. Long story short, the return to factory exhaust made the truck a quiet joy to drive.
KJ
RE: GM selling Hummer, maybe more
Interesting...I'm sure GMC is in there with Chevy and Cadillac. Why would they sell or who would want to buy a division who's intials are General Motors Corporation? And seeing how the are all made on the same lines as Chevys.
This speaks to a point I've made in many conversations: Why on earth do US auto manufacturers insist on maintaining makes and models with nearly identical features?
Daimler Chrysler in recent years killed off Plymouth for that very reason. Why have the Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Grand Caravan, and Chrysler Town & Country when they are the exact same vehicle with slightly different trim, bells, and whistles? It didn't make sense because the 3 brands competed against each other. The same was true of Oldsmobile vs Buick. That's one of the reasons Olds is gone, too much feature overlap.
While I don't like to see US jobs disappear, the manufactures need to take a long hard look at where they are beating themselves up and eliminate those conflicts. For example, why on earth does GM still make Chevy and GMC trucks :H Yes they vary slightly in appearance and features, but mechanically they are the exact same truck. The same holds true for Ford and Mercury SUV's and cars.
Buyers want choice, but they also want value. Make one vehicle, give it multiple options, and eliminate the fat.
KJ
RE: Am I crazy? '01 Suburban LT 2500 Autoglide 8.1L - UPDATE
They didn't put the Allison transmission on gas trucks that far back.
This is not quite true. They didn't put the Allison transmission in the Suburbans that far back, but they did put them in the 2500HD with the 8.1L engine starting in 2001. I know, I have one...:B
Suburbans (and the kindred YukonXL) never had Allison trannies. The height of the frame and body did not leave enough room for it. 2500HD and up pickups did get the Allison. The 2500 'Burb will have a Hydramatic 4L85E tranny, which is a beefed up version of the 4L80E that's behind the small block engines.
And to answer your question, NO you're not crazy. If you have the financial means and this vehicles meets your needs, then it's right for you. This vehicle wouldn't make sense if you were buying it to commute 100 miles per day. This is a fair route to go since this is primarily just your tow beast and hauler for 3 growing boys.
KJ
RE: Weights - Do They Sound Right?
TV - Empty - Just me and some fire wood
Truck Front Axel - 5048 lbs
Truck Rear Axel - 4357 lbs
Truck Total Weight - 9360 lbs
TV - Loaded with Loaded bed of stuff, Family and hitched up with TT
Truck Front Axel - 5160
Truck Rear Axel - 5446 lbs
Truck Total Weight - 10100
Trailer axels total – 7982
I could not weigh left and right axels as there was no room on one side of the scale
I weighed the TW on my Shurline scale and it came out to 900lbs
Were those weight totals for the truck what the scale read, or did you just add up the front and rear axles? By my math, the unhitched truck weighs 9,405# and hitched up you weigh 10,606#. So, that means your tongue weight is 1,200#.
Now, another question, how on earth does an unloaded truck weigh 9,400# ? :E My crew cab gasser weighs 6,300# with a full tank and two adults. Even though you have a diesel I'm baffled how that and "some firewood" can make your truck 3,000# heavier than mine. I know that I'm comparing two different makes of trucks, but still I can see how there's that much difference. Something just doesn't seem to add up here. :H Usually most diesels I hear of, regardless of brand, weigh somewhere in the range of 8,000# unloaded.
As far as your WD hitch, yes you are biased to the rear axle, but how does it ride? What are the FAWR and RAWR for your truck? I would think that 5,100# on the front axle is getting very close to the max rating.
KJ
RE: Three Reasons Why You Should Keep Your Truck
To get a decent commuter car, financed and insured, for $156 a month is pretty tough. That's a $6000 car financed over 5 years (~$100 monthly payment) and about $50 a month for insurance.
That's the break-even point, completely ignoring any maintenance costs.
That is a similar analysis I used and is also why it took me so long to finally get my commuter car. As I stated previously, I found nothing in the $2,000 range that was worth a hill of beans, so I just bought a car with a junk engine and a friend helped me rebuild it.
While I only get about 22.5MPG in the car, that's twice the fuel mileage the truck gets on the same commute. So, in relative terms, it's like I'm buying $2/gallon gas right now. That is a monumental savings! I realize that in the long run there are still other costs associated with the car, but it has significantly reduced my monthly fuel costs.
If I drive 10,000 miles this year, at 22.5MPG the car will use 444 gallons of fuel compared to the truck using 910 gallons at 11MPG. At $4/gallon the truck fuel cost would be $3,640 and the car $1,776. In just a matter of 10,000 miles (about 1 year worth of driving) I will have nearly recouped all costs of the car and start being on the plus side of the equation.
I realize this is not possible for all people, but for me I had to do something because the checking account was getting very thin :E
RE: SEVERE sway with my 2008 cougar304BHS?????
Please use the term "weight distributing hitch" or WDH, unless you specifically mean the Equal-I-Zer brand of weight distributing hitches. It gets confusing otherwise.
Consider chucking the friction bar and upgrading your WDH with the Reese Dual-Cam add-on. It's a much better system.
Pump up your tires to the maximum when towing. If the tires are too soft for the load, they will squirm around under the truck, causing some waggle.
All good advice here. Finding your exact weights is absolutely important here. You need to determine your loaded tongue weight and make sure your WD spring bars are properly rated for that amount. Also, I agree with the advice to ditch the friction bar and go to the Dual Cam System. Friction bars on a trailer of that size are completely useless.
KJ
